Discreet symbols readable only by insiders signal status most effectively

Evidence

Even when armed with alibis, some status symbols are more conspicuous than others. Within wealthy communities, the most effective status symbols can be so discreet as to look like unconscious cues. In the past, only expensive tailored suit jackets came with working buttons on the sleeves, and so rich men would leave a button undone “accidentally” to show off this detail. Tom Wolfe explains, “There are just two classes of men in the world, men with suits whose buttons are just sewn onto the sleeve, just some kind of cheapie decoration, or—yes!—men who can unbutton the sleeve at the wrist because they have real buttonholes and the sleeve really buttons up.” Well-to-do men who were familiar with this convention could read the signal of open cuff buttons and appraise the wearer as having high status. — W. David Marx, Status and Culture, 209

Categorization

  • XREF: The unbuttoned tailored-cuff signal is a crisp real-world instance of the coded appearance signals discussed in Lofland’s ‘World of Strangers’ (appearance as identity marker). — connects to: Obscure symbolic threats intimidate without leaving incriminating traces — Diego Gambetta, The Sicilian Mafia The Business of…, 337; Status symbols create a tradeoff between exclusivity and legibility to outsiders — W. David Marx, Status and Culture: How Our Desire for…, 224; People signal status by using symbols associated with top groups — W. David Marx, Status and Culture: How Our Desire for…, 210 (+6 more)
  • CANDY: That rich men once left a tailor-made sleeve button undone to prove their suit had working buttonholes is a perfect small-talk fact.
  • SHARE: This is a narrow, delightful detail for the person nerdy about the history of menswear and tailoring conventions.

Broader Connections